Model-Train-Help

5 Track Cleaning Methods Explained

Keeping the track clean takes just a few minutes on the average model railway. Keeping tracks clean makes for trouble free running and helps keep debris from your locos wheels and motors, ensuring good electrical pick up and hassle free operating sessions. If any of these parts are dirty then electricity can’t do its job and the set will fail to run efficiently. If your set is running poorly (or not at all), it could be a sign that the track needs cleaning.

Cleaning the track is not usually difficult but it is important. It is over to you which method you use as modelers seem to have their own preferences. Here are some methods that can make a big difference to the smooth running of your set:

1. Use A Pink Eraser.

A pink eraser (typewriter eraser) is probably the most commonly used method for cleaning track. They are cheap to buy, easy to use and generally work well. You simply lightly rub the tops of the rails with the eraser. However, there are a couple of drawbacks. Erasers tend to leave behind a dirty rubbery mess, which can eventually get into the locomotives mechanisms.

Erasers can be particularly troublesome around point-work, because the rubber gets into every nook and cranny. This can cause the point blades not to make contact on the rails and result in unreliable running.

Quick Tip:

There is little point in cleaning track if you don't clean all loco and rolling stock wheels at the same time.

2. Methylated Spirits Or Industrial Alcohol

Some model railroaders prefer meths for cleaning. It can work well, but the colored dye in it can sometimes remain on the rails after cleaning. An industrial alcohol is probably as good as anything if you wish to use a liquid.

Just lightly soak some some meths or industrial alcohol into a rag and lightly rub away the dirt that has accumulated. Make sure the room is well ventilated and DO NOT SMOKE while using this method. Likewise, do not use this method if there is a naked source of heating in the room. And, store it safely away from children, pets or heat…and carefully dispose of any cleaning clothes etc.

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3. Use Brand Name Cleaners

Use an organic-based cleaner such as Goo Gone (US/Canada)…it uses citrus oils of some sort, and works very well. Goo Gone is great for removing dirt and oxidation from the rails without harming any of the plastic parts. Use a track-cleaning car of the roller type, or else a lint-free rag. Use a dry rag to wipe up the remaining dirt after wiping with the cleaner-wetted rag.

Commercial products available for cleaning include: Formula 49, Bright Boy, Goo Gone and Wahl Clipper Oil. Wahl Clipper Oil has been around for a long time and not only cleans the rails but also improves conductivity.

4. Attach A Pad To A Car

Because the pads aren’t permanently attached to the car, you can remove them at any time. These pads won’t clean the track if it’s especially dirty, but they help maintain track already cleaned. The pads have to be sanded clean before each cleaning (or operating) session, otherwise they end up just spreading dirt.

Another way to maintain clean track is make your own inexpensive track cleaning car using a small piece of Masonite hardboard (or similar). You then attach (glue with epoxy) it to the bottom of a car (wagon) with a couple of nails or pins so that the pad can slide up and down, and slides along the track. The pad should have rounded edges. The weight of the pad is enough to hold it to the rails, so it polishes the rails as the car moves along.

5. Avoid Abrasive Cleaning Blocks

Abrasive cleaning blocks can scratch the rails. Never clean the track with wire wool as it will leave strands, which will cause a short across the track and trip the controller. Also, never try to clean the wheels or electrical contacts with 'wire wool'. Being made of steel the wire wool is attracted by the magnet and will cause damage. It also causes electrical shorts within the locomotive.

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Quick Tip:

Running your trains at least once a day helps keep the rails from getting dirty in the first place, so that's a fun way to keep rails clean, and feels less like work.

Quick Tip:

If your loco stops or slows down in the same spot on the track frequently here's what to do:

1. Thoroughly clean section of track

2. Check for "dead spots" a bad track connector or glue from scenery can disrupt power flow.

3. If problem persists track may be too large for the size of transformer/power pack.

Interesting Fact:

The Rocket was designed and built by George Stephenson of the Liverpool and Manchester railway in 1829. A common misconception is that the Rocket was the first steam locomotive. Truth is; the first steam locomotive to run on tracks was built by Richard Trevithick 25 years earlier, however it was not a financial success.

In 1829 Stephenson's Rocket won a competition for locomotive power at the Rainhill Trials on the Manchester & Liverpool Railway. All the other competitors broke down so a true result is a bit hard to tell; however in winning Rocket did fulfill the key requirement of the contest that a full simulated 56 mile (90-km) round trip under load be completed with satisfactory fuel consumption.

However, the Rocket's major claim to fame is that it was the first 'modern' locomotive, because it introduced several innovations that were used on almost every steam locomotive built since. George Stephenson had built steam locomotives before 1829. The Rocket was in some ways an evolution, not a revolution.

Rocket used a multi-tubular boiler. This resulted in more efficient and effective heat transfer between the exhaust gases and the water. Previous boilers consisted of a single pipe surrounded by water. The Rocket also used a blast-pipe for the first time. This used the blast of exhaust steam to induce a partial vacuum to pull air through the fire.

Stephenson's Rocket was capable of hauling a coach filled with passengers at 24 mph (39 km/hr). It pulled a load of three times its own weight at the rate of 12.5 mph (20 km/hr). The Rocket could haul 12.75 tons at 14 mph. It set a world speed record of 35 mph.

The Rocket still exists and can be seen in the Science Museum, London. There is also a replica in the National Rail Collection at York.

How To Repair Problems

What do you do when your locomotive or cars derail or breakdown? Well, the first bit of advice is not to panic. Usually the fault is in the track, the wheels, or the couplers, and it is likely that you can fix it yourself.

Inspect carefully to see if something is tilting the track in the area where derailments occur? Any abrupt changes in the angle of the track can cause derailments. Also check to see if there is something on the track level that is striking the train and causing the derailment? A flashlight will come in handy when examining the track. Look vertically down on the track and horizontally across the track. If you find even a small amount of debris, carpet fuzz, pet hair, floor dirt, or dust… then, clean the track. Surprisingly, small bits of debris are big enough to be the culprits, particularly with N and Z scale trains.

Make sure all sections are firmly pushed together, and that the joints between sections align smoothly without any kinks.

Dropping a locomotive is not recommended, but can happen to even the most of experienced modelers. Accidents like that are common causes for a broken flange. A wheel on a locomotive or car with a broken flange won't work and must be replaced. The same goes for a wheel that is twisted, or one that looks like it has been forced too close together or too far apart. The solution is always the same – replace the affected wheel.

Is your coupler broken or stuck? Couplers must be free to swing from side to side (some are sprung to one side, or made so they return to center). Broken or stuck couplers can force cars off the track. If a coupler won't budge when you try to move it from side to side, then don't force it. More than likely it will need professional repair.

When To Seek Expert Help

If you are looking for someone to do repairs, then your local phone book is usually a good place to start. Look under the category “Hobby and Model Supplies.” The other option is to ask at the hobby store where you purchased the set. The set (or locomotive) might still be under guarantee, or the store might offer repairs, or they might be able to suggest someone who could help.

Fixing model trains requires considerable knowledge and experience, so it is important that the person carrying out the repairs knows what he or she is doing. You wouldn't want your best locomotive (your pride and joy) damaged beyond repair. So, it is important to check the credentials of your repairer carefully. If a fellow modeler recommends the repairer to you, then ask your friend why he or she recommends the person.

There are plenty of manufacturers of train sets, parts and supplies. Here are some popular sites to check out (If for any reason clicking the links doesn’t work, you can simply copy and paste the links into your browser to access the correct web page):

Accurail, makers of HO trains: http://www.accurail.com

Cherry Creek Hobbies, model trains HO scale and model railroad supplies: http://www.cchobbies.com

Internet Trains, Over 100,000 different model trains, train sets, model railroading supplies & accessories available: http://www.internettrains.com

Model Tech Studios, Unique Structures, Details, 3D Backgrounds and Rollingstock in N, HO and O Scales: http://www.modeltechstudios.com

Modratec (Australia), An innovative blend of technologies allows the average modeler to design and build fully interlocking mechanical lever frames: http://modratec.com

Pacific Mountain Scale Shops, Highly detailed and very prototypically accurate polyurethane models: http://www.pacificmountain.ca

Rail Yard Models, Manufacturer of cast resin rolling stock kits for post 1960 era railroads: http://www.railyardmodels.com

Walthers, Supplies for the model railroad enthusiast. Walthers also have a newsletter: http://www.walthers.com/

Wm. K. Walthers, HO scale: http://www.walthers.com

These websites are well worth visiting, as they'll keep you up with what’s available, as well as pricing.