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Garden Railroads – Questions Answered
G Scale trains are larger than 0 scale (1:48) but smaller than the trains that are large enough to ride on. G-scale, is approximately 1:24 (varying from 1:19 to 1:32, actually). Most large-scale trains run on No 1 gauge track (45mm between the rails). They are ideal for garden settings and because they are large they are generally hard to derail. Some people also run O-scale (1:48) Lionel trains outdoors. How do garden railroads differ from indoor tracks? The difference between a traditional indoor layout and a garden railway is the difference between realism and reality. With indoor railroads, the goal is to create the illusion of reality through the use of artificial materials. For instance; trees are often made of synthetic materials, mountains are made of plaster, rivers are made of plastic resin, etc. A garden railroad is different. Being outdoors, you are dealing with real life. Trees are growing living plants, mountains are made of dirt, rivers are made of water, rocks are made of stone. And, they are exposed to the weather! Trees, branches, leaves and dirt can blow onto the track, rain can cause washouts, snow can stop trains... even animal life can be a factor. A garden railroad can be constantly changing with the seasons, the weather, and even the time of day. Are the trains left outdoors all the time? Many G-scale locomotives and cars are built to be waterproof, so trains can be run when it's raining or snowing. Most brands can withstand prolonged exposure to the elements, but G scale trains are expensive and you won't want them to get stolen, or let them deteriorate unnecessarily. For this reason, most people bring their trains indoors when they are not running. One option is to build tracks that run into a shed, or even indoors through the walls of your house. This way the train can be stored safely when not in use. Some of the more fragile buildings might be stored inside during the winter months. However, most other things like track, bridges, and buildings stay out year round. O-scale trains are not designed to get wet. How do you choose a suitable location for a garden railroad. Careful planning is important to ensure that your garden railroad operates efficiently and stands the test of time. When choosing a location question whether or not it is secure. You don't want any harm to come to your railroad or trains. Assuming you are happy with any security issues, then check to see how level the site is. Will you have to dig out parts of the garden to make it level (or maybe bring in additional earth). Will you need to build retaining walls, or bridgework? Will the railway fit in with an an existing garden, or will the garden need to be redesigned to fit with the railway? Are there things in the way like fences, clotheslines, dog kennels, buildings, paths, or swimming pools. What will need to be removed and what can be worked around? What if space is a consideration? How much space you need will depend on the type of railway you want to create. Decide whether you want a passenger line that connects small towns or maybe a line that will haul only freight. They will have differing space requirements as will an traditional narrow-gauge steam railway, or a modern, standard gauge, diesel-powered line. The space you have available will be a determining factor and will help you decide what will look and work best for your situation. If space is a major consideration then you may be best to opt for a small industrial line, with smaller engines, short cars, and tight curves. This type of line will fit better into a limited space. If you have more space available, then you might want to consider a modern mainline track. It will require broader curves and longer straight stretches to look right so plenty of space is necessary. What is needed to get started? This question really relates to how elaborate you want your garden railway to be. An indoor railway is generally complex and whereas the rule of “less is more” generally works best with garden railroads. With a garden railroad you don't need complicated track layouts, shunting yards, and hundreds of pieces of rolling stock. To get started, all you need is a single locomotive and three or four pieces of rolling stock (freight or passenger). A single-track mainline is usually enough, with sidings at stations, industries, and points of interest, and perhaps a branch line to an outlying terminal. You are dealing with the outside elements, so too many tracks and accessories can become a maintenance headache. Which type of roadbed is best for a garden railroad, cement or gravel? If you’re planning a G scale or garden railroad there are a couple of options to consider. 1. Cement works the well because it is not only weatherproof but also permanent. It does take a bit of time to do the job, but when compared to gravel roadbeds, it lasts almost for ever. The other advantage is that you won’t have to worry about washouts. Ready-mix cement makes the job much easier than it was in the old days. If you’re not sure how to go about pouring concrete or using read-mix, you may prefer to hire someone to do the job for you. Alternatively, ask a friend if they can help you, as a lot of people lay concrete around their homes. 2. Another material to use is chicken grit available from feed stores. Dig a four-inch deep by 5-inch wide trench and fill it with chicken grit. Compact the chicken grit and lay the track on top after leveling the track. You can ballast the track with more chicken grit. After a heavy rain you can re-level the ballast as required. After the first couple of years it doesn't take a lot of time, or grit, to level things. If using chicken grit - make sure you are getting grit NOT chicken "crumbles" which is a type of feed. Some modelers even ballast their indoor layouts with chicken grit, glued with equal parts white glue & water. If there is a gravel pit near you, then "crusher fines" is a lower cost material to use. Crusher fines work just as well and look good too. How do you keep the track clean? A popular option is to add a sweeper car which is designed to sweep dirt, leaves, bark, small rocks, twigs, and other debris away from the track and out of flangeways and switch points. The sweeper brush is motor driven powered by an onboard battery mounted on a drop-center car to keep the battery weight low for good tracking. It can have a replaceable non-abrasive rail cleaner to aid in maintaining electrical continuity for track powered railways. The car is designed to be pushed by your locomotive during track cleaning. A sweeper car clears nearly anything off the track above the ties, and a cleaning pad polishes the tops of the rails for good conductivity. Can a garden railway be built in areas that receive snow? Yes they can and the snow can add to the visual effect. A garden railway should be built to withstand the elements and natural hazards just like as with a full-size railroad. It needs to withstand: rain, sleet, hail and even snow. Some people even have a working snowplow to clear their lines. It can be a gondola car pushed ahead of the engine, or a simple wedge plow mounted to a locomotive's pilot. A more elaborate setup may include working rotary plows that will toss the snow 8' or more to one side. That can be impressive and a lot of fun to watch! How else can snow be cleared from a garden railroad? Sometimes it's easiest to get out a shovel and scrape the snow away yourself if you want to run trains. A moderate 6" snow scales out to 12' in 1:24 scale. Keep this in mind when expecting your plow to clear the track. Light, powdery snow is much easier to clear away than the wet, heavy stuff. Another winter hazard is ice on the track. Some days all you can do is go back indoors and wait for improved weather conditions. Won't I get electrocuted if I run electricity outdoors? Depends on the voltage you are using. Garden layout, like those in the smaller scales, generally run on low-voltage DC, usually 18-24V. It should therefore be perfectly safe to run your trains outdoors, even in the rain or snow. Trains generally run on the same voltage that garden lighting uses. The two systems can usually be successfully integrated, creating a wonderful night show. But, if you are in any way unsure, always talk with an electrical contractor and have him or her inspect the track before turning anything on.
Perhaps the biggest problem in running electricity through the rails is maintaining continuity across the joints as the rails expand and contract. One solution is to solder jumper wires across the joints. You can also get clamp-on rail joiners that aid in continuity. Your local electronics supply store will sell electrically conductive grease which can also be used in the joints. Do garden railroads need to run on electricity? No, some people find running electricity through the rails to be a big hassle. That is one of the reasons for the increase in popularity of battery-powered, radio-controlled trains. There are systems that can be fitted to existing track-powered trains. Another popular alternative
to electricity is live steam. These locomotives burn either alcohol or
butane gas, and are a popular feature in some garden railway layouts.
Back Emf control is very useful for a garden railroad where you have a lot of grades or for delicate switching. Back Emf is somewhat like the speed control in your car. The decoder constantly determines the needs of the motor and adjusts it accordingly. The speed can be set to a predetermined level so that the train will operate at that speed independent of load or grade (until wheel slip). The advantage of Emf control, is that you can control the train so that it crawls at a very slow constant speed (a must for switching operations). Emf is also useful if the locomotive needs to operate up and down hills at a constant speed. Many garden railroad enthusiast like to sit back with a drink in their hand watch their trains go by, so this function is worth considering. Therefore if your garden railroad requires slow operation or it has lots of grades, then 'back emf' could be a sensible option to consider. What's the best kind of rail to use on a garden railroad? Rails for garden railroads come in: aluminum, steel, brass, nickel silver, and stainless steel. Each material has its advantages and disadvantages and your decision will depend on a number of factors including: your local climate, budget and personal preferences. You are best to talk with garden railway enthusiasts in your local area. They are sure to have an idea of what will work, and look best, considering your local conditions. Talk with your local hobby shop or make connections through garden-railway societies or model railway groups in your area to find modelers who are willing to share their experiences. There are many forums, and bulletin-boards on the Internet where you can ask questions. What are all those tiny plants, and where do you get them? Many garden layouts utilize low-growing thymes and Scotch moss to mimic grass; small-leaved sedums look like shrubs. Boxwoods can be trimmed to look like deciduous trees; dwarf Alberta spruce can be trimmed to look like a conifer forest. There are many low-growing varieties of plants in local nurseries these days. Around the country, there are nurseries that specialize in plants that are appropriate for garden railways. Many plants found in rock gardens are small enough for us to use. No. The smallest model train that you can ride on is 1:18 scale, and that size train requires a 40-foot radius track. That's a bit large for most of our back yards! What is the maximum grade for a garden railway? For most garden railroads, the grade should not to exceed 2%. ©
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